Hurricane Season 2026: Impact Window Inspection Checklist

The Short Answer

Hurricane season in the Atlantic runs June 1 through November 30, and the ideal time to inspect your impact windows and doors is April through May — before the first storms form and before installers’ schedules fill up. A proper pre-season inspection takes about 30 minutes for an average home and can reveal problems that would leave your openings vulnerable when a storm arrives.

This checklist covers exactly what to look for, what you can fix yourself, and what requires a professional. If you discover damage or deterioration, contact National Glass for an assessment before the season peaks in August and September.

Why Inspect Impact Windows Before the Season Starts

Impact windows and doors are engineered to withstand high-velocity wind-borne debris, but they are not maintenance-free. Over years of exposure to South Florida’s salt air, intense UV radiation, and temperature cycles, several failure modes can develop:

Frame seal degradation: Caulking and weatherstripping harden and crack, creating gaps where wind-driven rain can enter.
Hardware corrosion: Coastal salt accelerates corrosion on locks, rollers, and hinges, making windows difficult to close securely.
Glass delamination: The interlayer between glass lites can begin to separate at the edges, visible as a milky or cloudy line.
Track debris: Sliding door and window tracks accumulate sand and grit that prevent proper latching.

The Houston Chronicle reported that Hurricane Ian caused an estimated $112.9 billion in damage, with a significant portion of insured losses attributed to water intrusion through failed or improperly secured building envelopes. In Miami-Dade, where the High Velocity Hurricane Zone requires the strictest product standards, an opening failure in one window can create internal pressurization that damages the entire structure.

The Pre-Season Inspection Checklist

1. Examine the Glass for Delamination and Edge Seals

Walk the exterior of your home and inspect each impact-rated glass lite for:

Milky or foggy edges: This indicates the PVB (polyvinyl butyral) or SGP (SentryGlas) interlayer is beginning to separate from the glass. Early-stage delamination can be repaired; advanced delamination requires full replacement.
Visible cracks or chips: Even small chips in impact glass compromise the structural integrity of the laminate. A crack that reaches the edge of the glass is especially dangerous because it creates a stress concentration point.
Sealant failure: The structural silicone sealant around the glass perimeter should be continuous and flexible. Look for gaps, shrinkage, or areas where the sealant has pulled away from the glass or frame.

When to call a pro: Any delamination larger than a quarter, any crack longer than one inch, or sealant gaps wider than one-eighth inch.

2. Test Every Lock, Latch, and Multi-Point Mechanism

Impact windows and doors rely on secure closure to perform under load. A window that is merely “closed” but not latched has almost no wind resistance.

Lock each opening fully: Turn the handle or engage the lock completely. You should feel or hear a positive engagement.
Check multi-point locks on doors: Entry doors and some sliding doors use multi-point locking systems that engage at the top, middle, and bottom. Test each point — if the top or bottom bolt does not extend fully, the door will not resist wind pressure.
Inspect lock strikes and keepers: The metal plates that receive the lock bolt should be firmly attached to the frame with no wobble or stripped screws.
Lubricate moving parts: Use a dry silicone spray (not oil-based, which attracts dirt) on locks, rollers, and hinges.

When to call a pro: If any lock fails to engage, if the handle turns but the bolt does not extend, or if the door frame flexes when you apply closing pressure.

3. Inspect Weatherstripping and Gaskets

Weatherstripping creates the pressure seal between the sash and frame. Compromised weatherstripping allows water intrusion even when the window survives impact.

Look for compression set: Weatherstripping that no longer springs back to its original shape has lost its sealing ability. Press on it with your finger — it should rebound immediately.
Check for UV damage: Rubber and neoprene weatherstripping degrades in sunlight, becoming hard and brittle. Crumbling or cracking weatherstripping must be replaced.
Verify continuous contact: Close the window and look for gaps between the sash and frame. A flashlight test from the exterior at night works well — if you see light streaming through, water will too.

When to call a pro: If weatherstripping is brittle, compressed, or missing in sections longer than six inches. Full-perimeter replacement on a large sliding door is typically a professional job.

4. Clean and Clear Tracks, Rollers, and Drainage Weep Holes

South Florida’s sand, pollen, and organic debris create unique maintenance challenges for sliding windows and doors.

Vacuum the tracks: Use a narrow vacuum attachment to remove accumulated grit. Sand in the track causes roller wear and makes latching difficult.
Check roller operation: A sliding door or window should move smoothly with one finger. If it requires force, the rollers are likely worn or the track is damaged.
Clear weep holes: Impact windows have small drainage openings (weep holes) at the bottom of the frame to release condensation and minor water intrusion. Blocked weep holes cause water to back up into the wall cavity. Use a pipe cleaner or compressed air to clear them.

When to call a pro: If rollers are flat-spotted, the track is dented or corroded, or if the sash has shifted out of plumb.

5. Verify Frame Attachment and Structural Integrity

The frame is only as strong as its attachment to the wall. Inspect:

Interior trim and casing: Look for separation between the window frame and the wall drywall or stucco. Gaps wider than one-sixteenth inch suggest frame movement.
Exterior sealant bead: The sealant between the window frame and the wall cladding should be intact. In coastal areas, this sealant typically lasts 5-7 years before requiring replacement.
Corrosion on aluminum frames: South Florida’s salt air causes pitting on unanodized or unpainted aluminum. Surface corrosion is cosmetic; deep pitting that weakens the frame wall is structural.

When to call a pro: Any frame movement, significant corrosion, or separation between the frame and wall structure.

6. Review Your Documentation

If you installed impact windows recently or inherited them with a home purchase, gather:

Miami-Dade NOA or Florida Product Approval numbers: Verify these are still valid on the Miami-Dade Product Control Search or Florida DBPR Product Approval system.
Installation photos: If you have them, compare current condition to installation-day condition.
Warranty paperwork: Note expiration dates and what is covered. Many manufacturers cover glass delamination for 10-20 years but exclude sealant and hardware.
Wind mitigation inspection report: If you have one, confirm it still reflects your current window configuration. Changes since the inspection may invalidate insurance discounts.

What to Do If You Find Problems

Minor Issues (DIY or Handyman)

Replacing weatherstripping on standard single-hung or horizontal roller windows
Cleaning tracks and weep holes
Lubricating locks and rollers
Recaulking interior trim gaps

Moderate Issues (Professional Assessment Recommended)

Delamination affecting less than 10% of the glass perimeter
Corroded but functional locks
Worn rollers that still operate
Exterior sealant replacement on second-story windows

Major Issues (Replace Before the Season)

Any crack or impact damage to the glass laminate
Delamination exceeding 10% of the glass edge
Frame movement or structural separation
Failed multi-point locks on entry doors
Products without valid NOAs or product approvals

The My Safe Florida Home Connection

If your inspection reveals that your windows need replacement, the My Safe Florida Home Program provides free wind mitigation inspections and grants up to $10,000 for qualifying homeowners. The program prioritizes homes built before 2002 (pre-Florida Building Code 2001) and before 2008 (pre-Florida Building Code 2007).

Even if your windows are in good condition, a free wind mitigation inspection can identify other openings — garage doors, gable ends, soffits — that need attention before the season.

When to Schedule Professional Service

Miami-Dade’s best impact window installers begin booking pre-season inspections in April. By June, availability drops and lead times extend to 4-6 weeks. If your inspection reveals any concerns, schedule a professional assessment with National Glass as early as possible.

Our technicians are familiar with all major brands — including ES Windows, PGT, MrGlass, and ECO Window Systems — and can evaluate whether repair or replacement is the better investment for your situation.

Quick Reference: Hurricane Season Timeline

Month	Activity	Your Action
April	Pre-season preparation	Complete this inspection checklist
May	Early storm formation possible	Schedule any needed repairs or replacements
June 1	Official season start	Confirm all openings close and lock securely
August–September	Peak activity	Monitor forecasts; have plywood or shutters for non-impact openings
November 30	Season end	Schedule post-season inspection for any storm-related damage

Last updated: April 2026. Hurricane season dates and program details are current as of publication. Always verify My Safe Florida Home program status at mysafefloridahome.com before applying.